Introduction 

Despite the opening of the European inner borders nearly 10 years ago, there is still somewhat of a psychological barrier. Nijmegen is about as close to the German border as one can get without stepping over it, but for some reason, I don't go to visit our German neighbours often. Similarly, Cologne is by train about as far from Nijmegen as Rotterdam is, but I find that I travel much more often to that last city than to Cologne. Cost -- international train-tickets being more expensive -- probably has something to do with it, the language quite probably as well. But I think I should try and overcome this self-imposed restriction and go to Germany more often, because there's a lot to be seen there, Roman and otherwise!

So, in July 2001 I boarded an ICE-train bound for Cologne and two hours later found myself in the centre of one of Germany’s largest cities, and which was the former capital of the provincia Germania Inferior. Around 38 BC the so-called 'Oppidum Ubiorum' was established for the loyal German tribe of the Ubii, and two legions were subsequently stationed there by Augustus.

During the reign of Claudius, in 50 AD, the city was formally made a Colonia and redesignated "Colonia Claudia Ara Agrippinensium," shortened to CCAA on the city gates, on display in the museum. The legions later moved away, but the Classis Germanica kept an important base at CCAA. Later, around 310 AD, a fortress was garrisoned on the eastern side of the Rhine in Köln-Deutz (Divitia), linked to CCAA by a bridge. The city finally succumbed to the Franks in 455 AD.

Anyone who arrives in the centre of Cologne, be it by rail or car, will immediately recognize its best-known landmark, the blackened 13th century cathedral (Dom). That, however, is nearly the only old building in the city-centre. Cologne was heavily damaged in World War II and undoubtedly the Dom itself is only partially old.

One thing is much older, though, and it stands near the Dom, on the route of anyone coming from the station into the cathedral square. It is the single arch of the side-gate of the ancient gate of CCAA. The arch of the main gate is on display inside the Roman museum and is inscribed with those letters. Other traces of the Roman origins of Cologne can be toured beneath City Hall. The praetorium of the governor of Germania Inferior once stood there, and the remains were found after WWII, excavated, and opened to tourists visiting City Hall. Surprisingly, the seat of government hasn't moved an inch in 2000 years!

After a short visit to the Dom and some bookshops, I went to my main destination for this trip: the Römisch-Germanisches Museum, or RGM, which is housed in a modern building next to the Dom. I had been there before on a school trip, some 10 years ago, but school trips are occasions where no one is expected to show any real interest, and in any case most high-school teachers don't know enough about Roman inscriptions, say, to answer any questions. So here I was, ready to make up for the lost years!

The Römisch-Germanisches Museum is quite big, but unfortunately many items on display are poorly lighted. Flash-photography is not allowed and of course I forgot to take a tripod, so all photos had to be taken at low shutter-speeds and without any shaking. There is no comprehensive catalogue, but every display comes with its own notice explaining all items. These are in German, French and English, but the latter two are shortened, so that everything fits one sign.

Roman military equipment buffs would be disappointed with this museum, since the only weapons on display are Frankish -- no gladii or galeae here! Luckily the museum shop is well-stocked with books, CDs, posters and other souvenirs. (I now possess a bust of Augustus, who's looking down on me as I type.)

After browsing extensively, I went outside, had another good look at some substantial gravestones that are only visible from the outside of the museum, and walked back to the station for the return train to Nijmegen. I would conclude that Cologne and the Römisch-Germanisches Museum are certainly worth a visit, but don't come from the other side of the world expecting to see many remains of the Roman military here.