Day five

First stop of the morning was Ardoch, 10 miles north of Stirling along the headwaters of the Firth of Forth, the crossroads of Roman military campaigns for a century and a half of Roman invasion and occupation. Highlighting the nature of Scotland's Roman ruins, the substantial set of earthworks in the southern part of the area (Flavian and Antonine forts) has very modest signage and parking and the none-too-gracious support of the local landowner. The tour was able to get a spectacular look at both the rampart and ditch complex and the course of the nearby Roman road. Rabbit damage in placeswas substantial.

A highlight of the visit was the appearance of two members of the Antonine Guard (centurion and legionary soldier) who gave us an opportunity to ask questions about military equipment and discuss the state of Scottish interest in Roman site tourism. Our tour, specialized as it was, was but a small reflection of what might be and our discussion with the troops was informative and enjoyable. Clearly, the re-enactors bring history alive for both schoolchildren and adults. In the case of Roman militaryre-enactment, all the drama and colour of the era is a tourism sure bet.

After a 1/2 hour or so at the fort area in the south, we took a bus ride a few minutes north to look at the remains of the larger marching camps in the Ardoch area. Portions of the ramparts and ditches were quite clear but others have succumbed to agriculture and were shadows in the bracken.

These camps were huge (up to 130 acres) and the open pastureland of the area allows one to glance at a map and get a rough sense of just how big a footprint a Roman army could place on the landscape when it was on themove.

Back on the bus, we headed northeast with a brief stop at Kaims Castle, our introduction to a Antonine era square fortlet with substantial rampart, ditch and facility. Again the site is very modestly presented. Parking as best one can at the side of a narrow road by someone's cottage, we walked to a nearby enclosure. The grass had been cut shortand the outlines of the rampart were still dramatic after 1800 years.

Lunch was at hillside picnic area in the town of Crieff, five miles away ... at a scenic overlook
that was a challenge to find but offered a spectacular view in the sunshine of a hazy summer's day. There was time for a bit of a hike before lunch on the nearby forested hillside.

In the afternoon, the tour continued with a wonderful walk along the
line of the Gask Ridge Flavian signal stations, perched on a northeast trending ridge between two branches of the River Earn used by the Romans for transportation and observation. We stopped at two signal station locations (Kirkhill and Muir o'Fauld), enclosed and well-tended but otherwise very peaceful. The weather was very nice (neither too hot nor too cold) and it was a great chance to stretch one's legs, walk on a shaded country road that ran as straight as a die (imagining the Roman era construction). Reforestation and abandonment of farmhouses has altered the landscape in the last century or two (let alone 1800 years) so it's just possible to get an occasional sense of the geography of the Ridge and it's role in Roman observation and territorial control, but only just.

Onwards to the city of Perth for the evening in a comfortable hotel right in the town. And another chance to stretch the legs and walk along the nearby River Tay before dinner.